It is a land of
concrete and steel and glass, where high rises and cargo
cranes and the green netting of construction vie for
domination the skyline. Pudong is a new animal, a metropolis
in the making, from scratch, rising from the rice patties at
the beckoning of an invisible hand. The migrant laborers
charged with building tomorrows temples of finance still
outnumber the men in suits who populate its five-star hotels
and upscale office buildings.
The old house gracing the entrance to the Lujiazui Park
seems an anomaly in the midst of this Jetson's-scape, like a
coke machine in a temple. In an area where no other tourist
attractions do not involve paying obscene amounts of money to
take an elevator to the top of a building, the old house and
the "Lujiazui Development Showroom" opened there in October
1997 provide a welcome contrast.
"Development
Showroom" is simply Pudong-speak for history museum. Pudong is
not a place known for its history, and this museum will not be
the place to enlighten seekers of the areas sordid and secret
past. A brief introduction to the Lujiazui area is posted,
explaining in Chinese that the area, once a beach, was first
settled in 1405, and derives its name from one Lu Shen
(1477-1544), literally meaning "Lu Family Mouth" (of the
river, we must assume). This is similar to many place names in
Shanghai, such as Xujiahui – "Xu Family Convergence" – and
Caojiadu – "Cao Family Ferry".
The main
attraction is the house itself, well-preserved and beautiful.
Although built 1914-1917, its style predates it by half a
century. (Pudong was always just a bit slow.) The two-story
gray brick shikumen is typical of upper-class residences in
late 19th and early 20th century Shanghai, with its Western
influences still dominated by the Chinese tradition: central
courtyards, detailed window lattices, raised door stoops, and
intricate wood carvings of Chinese themes. Although the
building is missing its original fixtures, like doorknobs and
lights, otherwise it is mostly intact, including the well in
the courtyard and the simple yet beautiful patterned tiles
covering its floors.
The entrance to
the museum is a traditional Chinese entry hall, with
calligraphy hung over old-style chairs. The room to the left
is billed as a "typical bedroom" of Old Shanghai. It only
contains three pieces of furniture, but impressive 1930s
vintage furniture, including a gorgeous Art Deco bed and a
matching bureau that attests to the humorous excesses to which
Deco designs were sometimes applied in Shanghai. The two rooms
to the right contain memorabilia of industry and folk art,
such as a loom, old pieces of blue calico, and a fisherman's
straw coat and hat.
The second
portion of the building, entered by passing through the back
of the entry hall, out the first building, and into the next,
brings you into the courtyard with the well. To the right are
more sparsely decorated rooms. There is another bedroom, but
traditional rather than Old Shanghai in style, with a simple
version of the "house in a bed" Ningbo bed and old trunks,
decorated by old advertising posters. At the room's door is a
case displaying a few old Qipaos. Next to it is a "dining
room" with two square tables that aren't even old and yet
another loom, which doesn't quite connect with the dining
theme. The row ends with a nifty old kitchen.
Across the courtyard, the history of Lujiazui is presented.
Alas, history as we conceive it, that is anything before 1990,
is consigned to a single wall of a few reproduced maps and
photographs, with photographs of government officials beaming
at meetings and of high rise upon high rise dominating the
remaining two and a half rooms. Okay, so maybe "development
showroom" is the word after all. 
With such a beautiful sight, one wishes that they had done
better with the exhibitions it contains. Even a first-class
collection, however, would still be eclipsed by the charm of
the house. Certainly, more photographs, more furniture, and
more items of daily use would help, but the building as it
provides an illustrative reminder of the lifestyles of the
laobaixing, the common folk, in an earlier era.
Address: 15 Lujiazui Dong Lu
Tel: 5887-9964
Price:
Y5
Hours: 8:30am-5pm
